Completely rebuilt. Came in with a failed restoration. WH Email for extra images. Excellent condition. We are an auto dismantling yard. Automatic transmissions are used pull outs from cars that come in. While they may work just fine, they may also need to be rebuilt. We do clean them, but some come cleaner than others. There is no core charge. You can pick them up locally or they can be shipped truck freight. Email us for details. We do not offer a discount for local pickup on transmissions.
Looks great. Removed from a Nice core. Air cooled for OHC 6. Fits Pontiac and Olds Engines. Fits Chevy engine. Has long tail shaft. GTO, Trans Am. Removed from a Trans Am. Was working great when removed. Fits tooth gear. GM Part GM Part Excellent condition. Has 41T gear now. Speedo cable threads have some mashed spots. Should fit several years and V8 cars as well.
For floor or column shift cars. Nice condition, goes behind the starter motor. New reproduction. Fits console shift ST Fits console shift TH GM part Fits console shift R4 transmission. Fits column shift ST Photo Courtesy Detroit Iron.
However, from — the year designation was first in the serial number sequence followed by the letter for the particular month. The third digit represents the month. The first month in the year is A, so the third month in the year is C. The third day in the month is represented as 03 So, this gearbox reads P7C Several businesses offer high-quality rebuild kits for the Muncie 4-speed transmissions, including 5speeds.
When buying a rebuild kit or an entire gearbox, be sure to buy these components from a reputable source. Some of the Muncie components you see Online are made to substandard tolerances and are of inexpensive materials. You put yourself at risk of failure if you build your gearbox with these components.
The bearing-retainer nut, which is a left-hand thread, follows both shift shafts on the case cover. The shift shafts are placed in the forward position, locking the transmission into gear. Photo Courtesy General Motors. Before removing the case-cover assembly, place the transmission into second gear by leaving the rear shift shaft on the case cover in the forward position and moving the front shaft to the center. Pull it out of the case and examine it. Set it aside for the re-assembly process.
Look down inside the case at the mainshaft gear and the counter gear. After removing the case cover, place the transmission in neutral by manually positioning the rear synchronizer sleeve so the teeth of all four bronze synchronizer rings are visible. Extract the rear-bearing retainer and mainshaft assembly, including the reverse idler gear, from the main case. Though still intact here, the main drive gearshaft or input shaft simply pulls away from the mainshaft, but most likely remains in the main case, where it can be gently tapped out of its main bearing and into the main case.
It can also be tapped outward, along with its bearing, and be removed as a unit. Use a bearing separator tool available from Mac Tools and other sources to complete the task.
Slide the mainshaft reverse gear off the mainshaft and pull the reverse idler shaft straight out. The mainshaft and gear cluster are seen here. Inspect the gears for chipping, excessive wear, or other visible imperfections.
It is a lot easier to replace any necessary parts at this time, than take the cluster out of the case a second time. To disassemble the mainshaft, use a pair of external snap-ring pliers to remove the rear-bearing retainer snap ring located on the rear end of the mainshaft. Insert the mainshaft assembly into a hydraulic press; while supporting the rear-bearing retainer, spread the snap ring, and press the mainshaft through the rear bearing, separating the two.
The procedure is the same as the one illustrated here from the service manual. Using snap-ring pliers and working front to rear, remove the front snap ring that retains the third-and fourth-gear synchronizer sleeve and third gear.
The synchronizer sleeves and hubs are matched pairs, so be sure to keep them oriented correctly. While supporting second gear, insert the mainshaft into the hydraulic press.
Applying pressure from the rear, remove the second gear, the first- and second-gear synchronizer hub, and the first gear to gain access to the second-gear synchronizer-block ring. This allows removal of the countershaft gear, its roller bearings, and its thrust washers, as well as the front reverse idler gear and its thrust washers.
Set all parts into a parts washer for a thorough cleaning. The main drive gear and its bearing were already removed from the main case. Here is an example of the coding found on a manual transmission: P9E01A.
Retain the shifting keys on the synchronizer hub with heavy bearing grease. Once that is completed, install the retaining springs. Continue with the first-gear synchronizer-block ring and first gear. Spread the front snap ring, sliding it over the rear of the mainshaft and fully seating it against first gear. Select a rear bearing retainer snap ring that reduces clearance between the snap ring and the rear-bearing face to a maximum of. The third gear and the third- and fourth-gear synchronizer clutch assembly and snap ring follow.
Set the completed mainshaft assembly aside for the time being while the main case is attended to. This procedure includes loading a. Set the countershaft gear and thrust washers into the main case. Using a hydraulic press, gently press the countershaft pin into the case from the rear.
The pin should be flush with the front of the case, and its stepped portion should face downward to clear the rear bearing support. Check the countershaft gear endplay with a dial indicator if old thrust washers are reused. If it does, replace the washers. In this diagram from the service manual, heavy bearing grease is used to retain 17 new roller bearings and a retaining cage into the main drive gear cavity before installing the unit onto the nose of the mainshaft.
This positions the main-bearing retainer so that the guide pin in it aligns with the hole in the case. Tap it into place. With the unit loosely assembled, install the front reverse idler gear its tanged thrust washer into the main case and insert the rear reverse idler gear through the rear-bearing support. This photo was taken prior to the installation of the front reverse idler gear on the mainshaft assembly.
Insert the rear reverse idler gear thrust washer and reverse idler shaft. During disassembly, you removed the reverse shift fork and drove the reverse shift shaft into the extension housing the reverse shifter shaft detent ball and spring fell out. Replace the reverse shift shaft seal before reinstalling the spring-and-detent-ball assembly back into the housing shown is the assembled housing.
Model Identification Code Automatic These codes were stamped on a metal tag located on the right side of the transmission. Exceptions are : stamped them either on a metal tag or the low servo cover. Production Code Number Manual These codes were stamped on the right side of the transmission case ahead of the extension. Exception : were stamped on the left side of the case rear of the cover. These still should give you enough information to check the transmission installed.
In the serial number was changed, it consisted of a plant prefix letter, year number, and month produced with a letter code instead of a number. On October 21, , another letter code was added to the plant prefix number to identify Muncie transmission ratios. Beginning in , the car's last eight numbers of the VIN were stamped on the transmission. As with all car productions there are exceptions to the rule. Look up part numbers also. Exhaust Systems.
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